Budget Fence N Deck: Types of Backyard Fences eHow.com: "Types of Backyard Fences eHow.com Types of Backyard Fences By Carl S. Miller, eHow Contributor . Types of Backyard FencesImage 1: tim es..."
How To Build A Classic Backyard Fence
Turning your backyard into a distinctive living space.
By Neal Barrett RSS Share July 29, 2005 12:00 AM
If you just want a fence to keep out the neighbor's dog, there are plenty of off-the-shelf choices at your local home center. If, on the other hand, the idea of defining your personal landscape with a touch of architectural flair grabs your imagination, you've come to the right place.
Our lattice-top design makes an ideal privacy screen, but it can do much more. Erect several panels at the corner of your yard to create a sheltered picnic area, or place them in front of a compost pile or toolshed. Either way, you'll be giving your back 40 a welcome touch of class.
MATERIAL WITNESS
We built most of the fence with 3/4-in. No. 2 common pine. This wood will have knots, and it's a good idea to seal the boards with a shellac-based sealer, such as B-I-N, so they don't bleed through the paint job. For the cap, lattice and splines, we switched to 5/4 (1-1/8 in. thick) lumber and used select grade to avoid the knots. The fence is designed to be built indoors, then assembled on-site. The box posts and sandwiched panels make construction easy--just be sure to study the drawing (page 136 in the June 2005 issue of POPULAR MECHANICS) before you begin.
Click here for PM's PDF version of the plans.
MATERIALS LIST
KEY QTY. SIZE DESCRIPTION
FENCE PANEL
A1 4 3/8 x 1-1/8 x 77-5/8" select-grade pine (lattice strip)
B1 19 3/8 x 1-1/8 x 13-7/8" select-grade pine (lattice strip)
C1 8 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 82-3/8" No. 2 pine (rail)
D1 4 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 11-5/8" No. 2 pine (upper stile)
E1 4 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 46" No. 2 pine (lower stile)
F1 1 3/4 x 3 x 82-3/8" No. 2 pine (divider)
G1 2 3/4 x 3-3/4 x 68-3/8" No. 2 pine (endcap)
H1 1 3/4 x 3-3/4 x 83-7/8" No. 2 pine (top cap)
I1 15 3/4 x 5-3/8 x 51" No. 2 pine (slat)
J1 14 3/16 x 1-1/8 x 51" select-grade pine (spline)
GATE
A2 4 3/8 x 1-1/8 x 35-1/8" select-grade pine (lattice strip)
B2 9 3/8 x 1-1/8 x 13-7/8" select-grade pine (lattice strip)
C2 8 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 39-1/4" No. 2 pine (rail)
D2 4 3/4 x 3-3/16 x 11-5/8" No. 2 pine (upper stile)
E2 4 3/4 x 3-3/16 x 44-1/2" No. 2 pine (lower stile)
F2 1 3/4 x 3 x 39-1/4" No. 2 pine (divider)
G2 2 3/4 x 3 x 66-7/8" No. 2 pine (endcap)
H2 1 3/4 x 3 x 40-3/4" No. 2 pine (top cap)
I2 7 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 49-1/2" No. 2 pine (slat)
J2 6 3/16 x 1-1/8 x 49-1/2" select-grade pine (spline)
POST
K 2 3/4 x 5-1/4 x 73-1/4" No. 2 pine (post side)
L 2 3/4 x 3-3/4 x 73-1/4" No. 2 pine (post side)
M 4 5/8 x 1-1/8 x 6-3/4" select-grade pine (cap trim)
N 1 1-1/8 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2" select-grade pine (post cap)
O 1 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 84" pressure-treated (post core)
FASTENERS
P as reqd. No. 20 joining plate
Q as reqd. 5/8" brad
R as reqd. 6d galvanized finishing nail
S as reqd. 8d galvanized finishing nail
T as reqd. 11/4" No. 8 galvanized fh woodscrew
U as reqd. 2" No. 8 galvanized fh woodscrew
Misc.: Waterproof glue; primer; shellac-based sealer; exterior wood filler; paint; 8-in. ornamental strap hinge, Stanley No. 611043;11-in. heavy-duty thumblatch, Stanley No. 622044.
Note: Quantities indicated are for one gate, one fence panel and one post.
TAKING STOCK
While painted pine was our choice, it doesn't have to be yours. At the low end of the price spectrum is pressure-treated lumber, followed in increasing cost by pine, cedar, redwood, mahogany and teak. These are all woods with some degree of resistance to weathering and decay, although pine depends on a good paint job to survive the elements. Of course, prices vary with availability, grade, size and specific species. For example, western red cedar can cost over twice the price of northern white cedar. And at the high end, teak can run over 10 times the cost of the No. 2 pine we used.
In most cases, you'll find pine, cedar and pressure-treated stock at your local lumber dealer. For the pricier woods, check out mail-order suppliers such as L.L. Johnson Lumber Manufacturing at www.theworkbench.com.
From left: pressure treated, pine, cedar, redwood, mahogany, teak.
PREP WORK
The first step is to rip all the stock to width, beginning with the 3/8-in.-thick lattice strips (1). A portable circular saw will handle the work, but use an edge guide to ensure uniform thickness. Prepare the 3/16-in. spline stock in the same way. Then, crosscut all fence pieces to length. To ensure square cuts, guide your saw with a carpenter's square held against the stock edge.
Prepare the lattice strips for assembly by marking the cross-strip locations (2). For speed and accuracy, clamp each panel group together and mark all the strips at once.
PANEL DETAILS
Join the lattice strips with 5/8-in. brads (3). If the assembly isn't perfectly square, simply pull it into shape before sandwiching it between its two frames. Set the brads below the surface of the wood and fill with glazing putty or exterior wood filler. Plate joinery is the fastest way to create accurate and reasonably strong frame joints.
After cutting the slots at the ends of the pieces (C1, D1 and C2, D2 in our PDF plans), apply waterproof glue, join the parts and clamp for about an hour (4).
Place a frame over a lattice and secure it with 6d nails. Drive the nails about an inch so they don't break through the thin strips (5). Flip the panel over, support it on a few spacers and nail the opposite frame, driving the nails flush. Then, finish driving the nails on the first side.
With all of the lattice assemblies built, nail a divider (F1, F2) to the bottom of each. Use a 3/16-in. slot cutter in a router table to cut spline slots in the edges of the bottom-panel slats (I1, I2) (6). You also could do the job with successive passes on a table saw. Prime the splines (J1, J2), use them to join the slats for one panel and lay the subassembly on the floor. Don't glue the splines in the slat grooves, as the joints need to be able to expand and contract.
Assemble the lower panels in the same way as the lattice panels (7). Tack one frame to the slats, then flip the assembly over to secure the opposite frame. Then, drive all nails flush.
Stand a lower panel upright and place a lattice section along its top edge (8). Drive nails at an angle through the divider and into the top rails of the lower panel.
Secure the endcaps (G1, G2) with 2-in. deck screws (9). Then, nail the top (H1, H2) to the lattice panel rails.
POST BUILDING
Box posts make sense because the height of each post can be adjusted to level the fence once it's in place. Keep in mind that you may have to alter post lengths and create a stepped fence if your site is gently sloped. Before you build the boxes, prime the insides of the boards to protect against moisture. Assemble the box parts (K, L) with 6d nails (10).
Cut 5/4 stock to size for the post caps and mark guidelines around the edges for the cap bevels. Shape the bevels with a block plane (11). Then, use a chamfer bit and router table to cut the bevel on the cap trim (M).
ASSEMBLY
On-site construction will be easier if you join the posts to the panels in the shop, mark and number the parts, and then disassemble them. Use 1-1/4-in. screws driven through the endcaps (G1) (12).
Mark and cut the notches in the gate endcaps (G2) so the hinges and latch hardware will sit flush against the gate rail surfaces. Use a small handsaw to cut the notch edges and switch to a chisel to remove the waste (13). Attach the hinges to the gate and post, and then remove them until final assembly.
Slide a pressure-treated 4 x 4 post core 4 ft. into each post box (14). Secure with screws, but make sure that the heads are accessible so post heights can be adjusted on-site. Prime and paint the bottoms of all panels, gates and posts. Once the fence is installed, these parts will be difficult to reach. And, they're the most susceptible to moisture infiltration.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Types of Backyard Fences
Types of Backyard Fences
Types of Backyard Fences
By Carl S. Miller, eHow Contributor .
Types of Backyard FencesImage 1: tim eschaton: Flickr.com; Image 2: Hammer51012: Flickr.com; Image 3: shekay: Flickr.com; Image 4: di_the_huntress: Flickr.comThe primary function of a backyard fence is to mark the boundaries of your property. However, it may also serve a number of other purposes, from child and pet containment to mere decoration. Residential fences come in many different designs. The fence you choose for your backyard will depend entirely on the purposes you intend it to serve.
.Wood
There are many options when it comes to the type of wood, but as far as structure is concerned, most wooden fences fall into one of three categories: picket, privacy and ranch.
Picket
This category includes the classic "white picket fence." Wooden boards stand vertically, spaced usually 1 ½ inches apart. Horizontal boards at the top and bottom connect these sets of "pickets" to wooden posts. These fences are primarily decorative fences, as they do not provide much privacy or security, standing only 3 to 5 feet tall. However, they easily contain small pets and children.
Privacy
As the name suggests, these fences are built for privacy. According to Beeson Fence Builders, "these types of fences can be built to heights as high as 8 feet tall." They also do not contain visible gaps between the wooden boards. Privacy fences are the most secure out of the wooden fences and may screen your yard from heavy winds.
Ranch
Split rail ranch fenceRanch style fences have vertical posts spaced about eight feet apart, connected by either two or three evenly spaced wooden rails. These fences offer no protection from intruders but are often used to contain large livestock. These fences, especially the split rail variety, are also used decoratively.
Chain Link
Chain link fenceChain link fences are by far the most versatile. They have metal posts that stick vertically from concrete foundations and support crisscross chain link sections. These fences vary widely in height and, while alone they offer no privacy, vinyl slats can be positioned vertically through the slats to lower visibility. Chain link fences are quite durable and, depending on the height, can be very secure.
Wrought Iron/Aluminum
Wrought iron fenceWrought iron and aluminum fences are usually built for their ornamental value, aluminum functioning as the cheaper alternative to wrought iron. These fences are structurally similar to the picket fence, except that the posts sit in a concrete foundation. While these fences do not offer much in the way of privacy, they are extremely durable and easily maintained.
Vinyl
Vinyl fences really don't have their own style. Vinyl is simply used to cost-effectively emulate the designs of non-vinyl fences. It can be made to look like a metal or wood fence. In addition to being inexpensive, vinyl is also very durable and low-maintenance.
.
Types of Backyard Fences
By Carl S. Miller, eHow Contributor .
Types of Backyard FencesImage 1: tim eschaton: Flickr.com; Image 2: Hammer51012: Flickr.com; Image 3: shekay: Flickr.com; Image 4: di_the_huntress: Flickr.comThe primary function of a backyard fence is to mark the boundaries of your property. However, it may also serve a number of other purposes, from child and pet containment to mere decoration. Residential fences come in many different designs. The fence you choose for your backyard will depend entirely on the purposes you intend it to serve.
.Wood
There are many options when it comes to the type of wood, but as far as structure is concerned, most wooden fences fall into one of three categories: picket, privacy and ranch.
Picket
This category includes the classic "white picket fence." Wooden boards stand vertically, spaced usually 1 ½ inches apart. Horizontal boards at the top and bottom connect these sets of "pickets" to wooden posts. These fences are primarily decorative fences, as they do not provide much privacy or security, standing only 3 to 5 feet tall. However, they easily contain small pets and children.
Privacy
As the name suggests, these fences are built for privacy. According to Beeson Fence Builders, "these types of fences can be built to heights as high as 8 feet tall." They also do not contain visible gaps between the wooden boards. Privacy fences are the most secure out of the wooden fences and may screen your yard from heavy winds.
Ranch
Split rail ranch fenceRanch style fences have vertical posts spaced about eight feet apart, connected by either two or three evenly spaced wooden rails. These fences offer no protection from intruders but are often used to contain large livestock. These fences, especially the split rail variety, are also used decoratively.
Chain Link
Chain link fenceChain link fences are by far the most versatile. They have metal posts that stick vertically from concrete foundations and support crisscross chain link sections. These fences vary widely in height and, while alone they offer no privacy, vinyl slats can be positioned vertically through the slats to lower visibility. Chain link fences are quite durable and, depending on the height, can be very secure.
Wrought Iron/Aluminum
Wrought iron fenceWrought iron and aluminum fences are usually built for their ornamental value, aluminum functioning as the cheaper alternative to wrought iron. These fences are structurally similar to the picket fence, except that the posts sit in a concrete foundation. While these fences do not offer much in the way of privacy, they are extremely durable and easily maintained.
Vinyl
Vinyl fences really don't have their own style. Vinyl is simply used to cost-effectively emulate the designs of non-vinyl fences. It can be made to look like a metal or wood fence. In addition to being inexpensive, vinyl is also very durable and low-maintenance.
.
Budget Fence N Deck: Budget Fence N Deck: Dallas Fence Companies | Budg...
Budget Fence N Deck: Budget Fence N Deck: Dallas Fence Companies Budg...: "Budget Fence N Deck: Dallas Fence Companies Budget Fence N Deck Dal...: ' Welcome to Budget Fence N Deckhttp://www.budgetfencendeck.com/
How to chose a fence.
Thoughts to ponder?
Two things are very important in the garden. They are privacy and shelter. The latter is often a problem in gardens which are exposed to cold prevailing winds. Both these points are important not only for the gardener himself, but also for the plants in his garden. Young growth can be severely damaged by cold winds and frequent buffeting will cause a great deal of root disturbance. Although privacy and shelter can be provided by trees and shrubs, fences also have an important part to play.
The choice of fencing must never be undertaken lightly, for serious consideration must be given to its appearance and construction. Strength is very important, especially in exposed, windy localities. A fence is only as strong as its supports, and particular care must be taken to see that these are not only substantial but inserted securely. Most fences are supplied with strong posts, usually 4-6in (10-15cm) square, depending on the type of fence that has to be supported. Sometimes concrete posts are supplied; these are extremely strong, although a little more cumbersome to install. It is very important to see that concrete posts are inserted deeply and firmly. Strength of timber also depends on the prevention of rot, and unless cedar wood is used (except for posts), all timber should be treated with a suitable preservative. Soaking with sodium fluoride and copper sulfate can be used, although it should be allowed to soak into the timber for several weeks before plants are trained against it. Unless this is done, there is the danger of stem and leaf scorch and its use is not generally recommended where plants are to be grown against or near a fence. A safer treatment consists of the use of copper naphthenate preservatives such as the green, horticultural grades of Cuprinol or Solignum.
Types of fencing
The most popular types are purchased as units or panels. Usually they are from 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m) in length with heights varying from about 3-6ft ( 90cm-1.8m). A solid or close boarded fence is, as its name implies, a design which consists of upright or horizontal strips of wood, some 6in (15cm) wide and 1in (2-2.5cm) thick. The strips are nailed to two or more supporting rails at the rear of the panel. These provide complete privacy and wind protection, but are rather uninteresting in appearance.
Weather board fencing provides a little more interest in its appearance as it consists of wedge-shaped strips of wood, 1 in ( 2cm) in thickness at one edge, tapering to 0.5 in (1cm) at the other. Each strip overlaps the next by about 1 in(2cm). The advantage of this design is that it is virtually peep proof.
Interwoven fencing is very attractive but inclined to open up a little, especially in the cheaper units. Thin strips of wood, approximately 4in (10cm) wide and 0.5 in (1cm) thick, are interwoven one with another. It is a strong fence if it is supported well. Trellis fencing is very cheap and more suited as a support for climbing and trailing plants. It is not a strong design but can be used to good effect for covering unsightly walls or as an additional part of a fence design. Sections 18-24in (45-60cm) deep look most attractive if attached to the top of, say, a close-boarded fence. Used in this manner it helps to lighten an otherwise heavy, solid design.
Trellis fencing usually consists of laths of wood 1 by 3/4in ( 2.5 by 1.5cm) thick, fastened across each other vertically and horizontally to form 6-8in (15-20cm) squares. The laths are attached to a more substantial framing of 1 or 1in (2.5 or 3cm) square timber.
Two other cheap types of fencing are wattle and cleft chestnut. The former is useful where a rural or rustic effect is desired. The woven, basket-like construction produces a very sturdy fencing panel. The panels are usually attached to lengths of oak stakes driven securely into the ground. The latter fence can be purchased with the individual pieces of cleft chestnut spaced out at different intervals. It is possible to purchase rolls of this fencing with the paling nearly touching. The rolls are usually attached to strong oak posts by galvanized wire. In their construction, individual cleft chestnut palings are wired top and bottom to strong horizontal wires.
One of the latest advances in fence production is the sale of kits which are so accurately machined and complete that even an unskilled person can erect panels without any trouble. With these kits have come new ideas in design, and many can be made up into contemporary designs. This is especially useful where bold effects are required in the construction of patios. Many ultra-modern properties are being built and this advance in fence appearance will be welcomed by their owners.
Fencing can also be provided in the form of chain link or mesh netting. The best quality is heavily galvanized to withstand the rigors of the weather. A small fence should consider wire mesh as a popular option.
A more recent innovation is the plastic coating of chain link over the galvanized wire. Standard colors of dark green, black, white, yellow and light green can be obtained.
Wire netting is another cheaper and useful fencing material. Wire netting is easy and quick to erect as it requires only moderately substantial supporting posts of timber or angle iron spaced approximately every 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m) apart according to the height and length of the fence being erected.
Another type of fencing is known as rustic. This is constructed from larch or pine wood of circular section. The main uprights are usually quite substantial and are cut from 3-4in (7-10cm) diameter timber while the design work between them is of thinner section, usually about 11-2in (3-5cm) diameter. The most popular design consists of a diamond pattern approximately 18in (45cm ) in area. It is sold by the square foot either with the bark on or removed, stained and varnished. The result is a most natural fence or screen which blends in very well with the surroundings.
How to chose a fence.
Thoughts to ponder?
Two things are very important in the garden. They are privacy and shelter. The latter is often a problem in gardens which are exposed to cold prevailing winds. Both these points are important not only for the gardener himself, but also for the plants in his garden. Young growth can be severely damaged by cold winds and frequent buffeting will cause a great deal of root disturbance. Although privacy and shelter can be provided by trees and shrubs, fences also have an important part to play.
The choice of fencing must never be undertaken lightly, for serious consideration must be given to its appearance and construction. Strength is very important, especially in exposed, windy localities. A fence is only as strong as its supports, and particular care must be taken to see that these are not only substantial but inserted securely. Most fences are supplied with strong posts, usually 4-6in (10-15cm) square, depending on the type of fence that has to be supported. Sometimes concrete posts are supplied; these are extremely strong, although a little more cumbersome to install. It is very important to see that concrete posts are inserted deeply and firmly. Strength of timber also depends on the prevention of rot, and unless cedar wood is used (except for posts), all timber should be treated with a suitable preservative. Soaking with sodium fluoride and copper sulfate can be used, although it should be allowed to soak into the timber for several weeks before plants are trained against it. Unless this is done, there is the danger of stem and leaf scorch and its use is not generally recommended where plants are to be grown against or near a fence. A safer treatment consists of the use of copper naphthenate preservatives such as the green, horticultural grades of Cuprinol or Solignum.
Types of fencing
The most popular types are purchased as units or panels. Usually they are from 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m) in length with heights varying from about 3-6ft ( 90cm-1.8m). A solid or close boarded fence is, as its name implies, a design which consists of upright or horizontal strips of wood, some 6in (15cm) wide and 1in (2-2.5cm) thick. The strips are nailed to two or more supporting rails at the rear of the panel. These provide complete privacy and wind protection, but are rather uninteresting in appearance.
Weather board fencing provides a little more interest in its appearance as it consists of wedge-shaped strips of wood, 1 in ( 2cm) in thickness at one edge, tapering to 0.5 in (1cm) at the other. Each strip overlaps the next by about 1 in(2cm). The advantage of this design is that it is virtually peep proof.
Interwoven fencing is very attractive but inclined to open up a little, especially in the cheaper units. Thin strips of wood, approximately 4in (10cm) wide and 0.5 in (1cm) thick, are interwoven one with another. It is a strong fence if it is supported well. Trellis fencing is very cheap and more suited as a support for climbing and trailing plants. It is not a strong design but can be used to good effect for covering unsightly walls or as an additional part of a fence design. Sections 18-24in (45-60cm) deep look most attractive if attached to the top of, say, a close-boarded fence. Used in this manner it helps to lighten an otherwise heavy, solid design.
Trellis fencing usually consists of laths of wood 1 by 3/4in ( 2.5 by 1.5cm) thick, fastened across each other vertically and horizontally to form 6-8in (15-20cm) squares. The laths are attached to a more substantial framing of 1 or 1in (2.5 or 3cm) square timber.
Two other cheap types of fencing are wattle and cleft chestnut. The former is useful where a rural or rustic effect is desired. The woven, basket-like construction produces a very sturdy fencing panel. The panels are usually attached to lengths of oak stakes driven securely into the ground. The latter fence can be purchased with the individual pieces of cleft chestnut spaced out at different intervals. It is possible to purchase rolls of this fencing with the paling nearly touching. The rolls are usually attached to strong oak posts by galvanized wire. In their construction, individual cleft chestnut palings are wired top and bottom to strong horizontal wires.
One of the latest advances in fence production is the sale of kits which are so accurately machined and complete that even an unskilled person can erect panels without any trouble. With these kits have come new ideas in design, and many can be made up into contemporary designs. This is especially useful where bold effects are required in the construction of patios. Many ultra-modern properties are being built and this advance in fence appearance will be welcomed by their owners.
Fencing can also be provided in the form of chain link or mesh netting. The best quality is heavily galvanized to withstand the rigors of the weather. A small fence should consider wire mesh as a popular option.
A more recent innovation is the plastic coating of chain link over the galvanized wire. Standard colors of dark green, black, white, yellow and light green can be obtained.
Wire netting is another cheaper and useful fencing material. Wire netting is easy and quick to erect as it requires only moderately substantial supporting posts of timber or angle iron spaced approximately every 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m) apart according to the height and length of the fence being erected.
Another type of fencing is known as rustic. This is constructed from larch or pine wood of circular section. The main uprights are usually quite substantial and are cut from 3-4in (7-10cm) diameter timber while the design work between them is of thinner section, usually about 11-2in (3-5cm) diameter. The most popular design consists of a diamond pattern approximately 18in (45cm ) in area. It is sold by the square foot either with the bark on or removed, stained and varnished. The result is a most natural fence or screen which blends in very well with the surroundings.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Budget Fence N Deck: Dallas Fence Companies | Budget Fence N Deck | Dal...
Budget Fence N Deck: Dallas Fence Companies Budget Fence N Deck Dal...: " Welcome to Budget Fence N Deckhttp://www.budgetfencendeck.com/ (972) 537-7766 Finally, a company that offers quality service at a pr..."
Dallas Fence Companies | Budget Fence N Deck | Dallas Fence Repair Dallas Fence Staining
Welcome to Budget Fence N Deck
http://www.budgetfencendeck.com/(972) 537-7766
Finally, a company that offers quality service at a price that wont break the bank.
Budget Fence N Deck is member of the BBB. We are proud to offer new fences, decks and arbor installation, repair of existing wood structures and staining and sealing.
Our goal is to deliver you a product based on your needs and budget. Because we use quality materials and have exceptional workmanship we can offer services with up to a 10 year warranty.
Check our specials, then contact us today for a free estimate.
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